Sakaba Taisuke

Set in the residential neighborhood of Oyaguchi-kitacho between Naka-itabashi and Kotake-mukaihara, Sakaba Taisuke is an izakaya that displays the careful craftsmanship of a small traditional eatery. Counter and table seats sit within a relaxed dining room suited to unhurried solo drinking as well as quiet meals with companions.

A sensible first choice is the assorted sashimi or the selection of shellfish, both notable for their freshness. After a cold draft beer, pairing the fish with sake such as Yamagata's Kudoki Jozu or Niigata's Yoshinogawa brings out the natural depth of the seafood. For cooked fish, the grill offers selections such as Saikyo-style cod and grilled genuine shishamo smelt.

Alongside the seafood, skewered chicken tsukune and dashi-rich rolled omelets make an impression. The kitchen also turns out attentive small bites like shrimp toast, fried ginkgo nuts, and house-made liver paste, providing plenty to graze on as you sip.

The meal can be finished with toasted onigiri rice balls, comforting ochazuke, or Inaniwa udon served either hot or chilled. Tables often fill up in the evening, so making a reservation before heading over is wise.